More than a craft : the food practice of yum cha as an intangible cultural heritage of Hong Kong

Abstract

Food is an important part of culture that has not received as much attention as other cultural products and practices in heritage study. At the international level, food practices have been inscribed into the UNESCO Representative List as a form of intangible cultural heritage (ICH). Food related items are valued holistically as a common lifestyle for members of a group. In Hong Kong, however, food items are grouped under “Traditional Craftsmanship” which demonstrates that food is narrowly defined as a singled item of “craft” rather than a cultural practice. With the research of this paper, it is hoped that the cultural significance of food as a “way of food” can be more comprehensively understood and recognized in the context of Hong Kong. Yum cha practice in Chinese teahouses and restaurants is the research focus of this study. Being a representative food culture of Hong Kong, it is not inscribed into the Intangible Cultural Heritage Inventory of Hong Kong, instead, “Chinese Dim Sum Making Technique” which only constitutes a part of this food practice is included as a food item. In this paper, the theoretical concept of foodways, which is regarded as the food practices and customs of a collective in the aspects of production, preparation, provision and consumption, is adopted to analyze the yum cha practice. The social and cultural significance and characteristics of yum cha practice is assessed and identified through interviews with the bearers and practitioners and a case study on Three Minus One Restaurant, a teahouse that operates in a traditional style. After understanding its cultural significance, this paper concludes with a discussion on whether yum cha practice should be considered an ICH of Hong Kong and whether the acknowledgement of yum cha practice as a practice could better communicate and safeguard the cultural significance of food culture.